bob
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Post by bob on Feb 4, 2021 23:42:40 GMT -5
I don't anneal but I have read about the process. A friend of mine, who is getting involved with our affliction, was told by an "old hand" that he uses an oven to anneal, I expressed that I thought that was wrong as you only anneal the neck and shoulder area. Annealing the whole case would weaken it, is this correct or am I wrong?
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Post by hacker54 on Feb 5, 2021 1:05:51 GMT -5
Definition Annealing is a heat treatment process that changes the physical and sometimes also the chemical properties of a material to increase ductility and reduce the hardness to make it more workable. As you can see if you did the whole case it would in fact make it ductile when you only want the neck shoulder area done.
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poohzilla
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Post by poohzilla on Feb 5, 2021 7:15:14 GMT -5
Bob, I think Hacker summed it up pretty well. I've done very little annealing, and that was back when I was young and foolish. (Now reduced to the latter...) I was guided by Nonte's Modern Handloading. Since then, I've really avoided the whole thing. Whatever its merits, keeping that case head hard is important. As to the oven, nothing goes in there but Pooh's cookies !
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SnapShot
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Post by SnapShot on Feb 5, 2021 11:26:27 GMT -5
My experience with case annealing goes back a long time ago and I have not used the process in over 50 years. Way back then I was trying to neck out 30-06 military cases to make 35 Whelen ammo (it was a wildcat back then and brass was not commercially available). I also had a 222 Remington and 223 brass was plentiful so I resized and shortened them. The old guys who were counseling me back them taught me to stand the brass upright in a pan of water so approximately half of the case was submerged. I heated the upper portion of the brass with a gas torch. The whole idea was to keep the lower portion of the brass from being heated and softened. It worked slick to neck out the 30-06’s. However the 222 Remington project had less success due to the need to resize a much larger portion of the case and push the shoulder back so far. Based on all of that and everything you guys have said here I would agree that the oven idea is not a good one.
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poohzilla
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Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
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Post by poohzilla on Feb 6, 2021 13:41:29 GMT -5
Ok, I've probably given this more thought... Did the newbie specify cases ? A lot of casters insist that harder is always better, and heat treat their bullets (with or without powder coating) to increase the BHN. Was that what he was driving at, with a failure of nomenclature ? Personally, I think harder may *sometimes* be better, so I haven't goofed with that process. (My cookies definitely harden with heat treatment !) Just wondering.
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bob
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Post by bob on Feb 6, 2021 20:44:41 GMT -5
Pooh, he was talking about bottle neck cases, as to your cookies I understand they are off the BHN scale and barely still in the Rockwell Hardness scale and the only solvent is Hackers coffee which has a ph of 2.
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poohzilla
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Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
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Post by poohzilla on Feb 7, 2021 17:09:36 GMT -5
Bob, I never for a moment doubted *you* ! It's just when I hear something that far out of line, I try to find a reason. Sometimes it's an expensive hobby !
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bob
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Location: Northern California
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Post by bob on Feb 7, 2021 20:25:28 GMT -5
Pooh, "that far out of line" is why I brought the subject up "looking for reason" with knowledgeable people. By the way I could have been a little clearer in the beginning.
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hal8337
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Post by hal8337 on Feb 9, 2021 6:50:44 GMT -5
I anneal but just started in the last 5 years. It does help extend the case life if you shoot plenty. If you have access to range brass where there is plenty of someone else's discards you might want to save your money but what good is plenty of those priceless brass w/o those other priceless components?
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mule
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Post by mule on Feb 13, 2021 13:00:42 GMT -5
Poohzilla, Brass and lead do not react the same to cooling. Quenched lead hardens. Quenched brass does not.
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dangun
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Post by dangun on May 12, 2021 17:23:51 GMT -5
Sorry this is so late, but annealing is what we all use with our competition wildcat brass. Tempilaq 750F is a Temperature Indicating Liquid. Brush a small streak inside the neck of the case. Let it dry. I use a 1/4" square apex shaft with a shell holder of the appropriate size pressed on the end. Chuck it up in a variable speed drill with the case mounted on the shell holder, hold it vertical and spin the case while holding a propane torch to the shoulder and neck only. Watch the inside of the case neck when the Tempilaq liquifies remove the heat immediately. If you hold the heat on too long the case will be ruined, not long enough and it won't be annealed.
I do this with most of my bottle neck brass after every third reload. You can in some cases go four or five reloads in between but after three you risk splitting the necks. I hope this helps
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bob
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Post by bob on May 12, 2021 23:23:22 GMT -5
Could make some smart remark about being late, I won't though. Just glad you are here! To bring you up to date about my annealing, I now have 2 "wild cats" one is the K Hornet the other is very similar to a 6.5-.280 improved, it is a 6.5- 270 Steagall Improved, those plus the apparent brass shortage inspired me to start. I bought an Annealeez and it is easy to use and seems to be very consistent. I looked at an tried your method but I could not be consistent .
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poohzilla
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Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
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Post by poohzilla on May 13, 2021 9:19:28 GMT -5
At the time I did my foray into annealing brass, I was told to stand them in water to keep the base cool, and after heating them to tip them over in the water to cool them quickly. It looks like you guys are air cooling them. Does it make difference ? Thanks !
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SnapShot
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Post by SnapShot on May 13, 2021 16:44:25 GMT -5
Just to add to the confusion of all of this I’ll throw my understanding into it. As a boy I had an old Nebraska Farmer teach me to make knives out of old Hoof Rasps. These were steel about 16 to 18 inches long, about two and a half inches wide and maybe half to three quarters inch thick. We heated them until they were red and when we drug a file across them the marks had to be straw-yellow. Then we stuck them into powdered lye and allowed them to slowly cool over-night. He said this was annealing and made the steel soft and workable. Once we had shaped the blade we again heated it until it was bright cherry-red and when we drug a file it left white streaks. They we quenched it in cold water. This hardened the metal and we could sharpen it. He said this was tempering the metal. Years later (the 1960’s) I did my first reloading that involved annealing the brass to allow reforming. I was taught the process of standing the cases in water so approximately a third of the case was covered. We heated the upper portion of the case until it turned dull red and then knocked them over to quench them. If we allowed them to cool on their own the brass would be too soft and most likely crush when we reshaped them. So based on a Nebraska Farmers instructions back in the 1950’s that is my education in metallurgy, both of these processes accomplished what we set out to do.
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bob
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Post by bob on May 13, 2021 23:03:11 GMT -5
Pooh. that's the way I learned also, which is one of the reasons I deleted it from my process. I then found that by neck sizing and minimizing my trim to length to about a 0.001 or so my brass was lasting a long time. In answer to your question, I understand that doesn't matter as long as you restrict the heat to the neck area. Dan could probably splain it better!
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