poohzilla
Member
Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
Posts: 1,050 
Location: New Hamster
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Post by poohzilla on Jul 5, 2014 16:04:43 GMT -5
Hi- I figured the Hillary Clinton lead would get your attention... I had a new shooter out today, and one of the things we used was my son's CZ-75. Given that I'd borrowed it, I gave it a thorough cleaning. (Gotta have a word with the boy.) Among the things I was using was a bunch of carb cleaner. I've heard of people using brake cleaner as well, but not being a real motorhead, I don't keep it around. Is there any real difference ? I honestly don't know. (If it's the same stuff, I'd probably buy which ever was on sale ! I figured someone on here would know, and even if no one did, there would be a good story come of it !
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Post by hacker54 on Jul 5, 2014 16:11:20 GMT -5
Pooh,
Were you using this to clean the bore and the rest of the firearm or just everything except the bore? The difference between the two I don't really know. I think the one has a certain element the other doesn't(?) I'll have to look into this.
OK Pooh I did some checking. Carb cleaner has an oil type base to it where as brake cleaner does not.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Jul 5, 2014 17:47:21 GMT -5
Handguns with any plastic of wood should not be sprayed with carb cleaner. There are 2 types of brake cleaner the first usually has some type of red labeling on it. It is not safe either. There is also a Green label brake cleaner this is safe to use on firearms with plastic and wood.
The Green label brake cleaner is great for removing the carbon build up in the receiver, trigger well, mag well and even in the mags. It will do a decent job in the bore and chamber but will only remove burnt powder residue, oil and crap like that. Bores should cleaned as usual.
The carb cleaner will seem to be safe for sometime. No immediate damage will be noticed. Then one it will be fired or even just picked up and the plastics will crumble and any saturated wood will be mush. Any non-metallic parts are subject to attach
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Post by ultramag on Jul 5, 2014 22:22:00 GMT -5
Non-chlorinated is the labeling you want to watch for on the brake cleaners for your use.
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bob
Member
I'm too old to be nice but never too old to learn!
Posts: 1,457
Location: Northern California
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Post by bob on Jul 5, 2014 23:15:39 GMT -5
Pooh: As Dan said carb cleaner can be hard on wood and plastic. I use WD40 then if there is an area I don't want any residue I follow with green brake cleaner it is good for getting into mechanisms and if done right cleans well and leavees no trace. The WD40 gets rid of any moisture brake clean won't. The bore gets a different treatment depending on desired result, either Hopes or one of the stronger products.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Jul 6, 2014 8:23:13 GMT -5
Thanks Ultramag that is what I was trying to say just couldn't think of it and was too lazy to go look. LOL
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poohzilla
Member
Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
Posts: 1,050
Location: New Hamster
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Post by poohzilla on Jul 6, 2014 12:13:03 GMT -5
Right on-bores are a different thing. I started using carb cleaner when I was shooting an AR-15 in service rifle. Just the bolt and carrier, which could get pretty cruddy. My effort yesterday was all in the slide-no plastic or wood was harmed in the cleaning of that gun ! In any event, thanks to all for the help in the on-going struggle to remediate my ignorance !
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My daughter came from Missouri, my son and grand son, my wife and I had a nice dinner of grilled "porter house" pork chops, corn on the cobb, my son, G'son and I share 10/5. G'son is 4 minutes early though @ 10/4.
Pooh I hope you find to right house . 
