Bulge Buster

I don't use Lee's bulge buster, so I have no idea what they size to, inside diameter-wise.  I use the Redding G-Rx and using it you run all your brass through it first, then reload normally using a regular sizer, expander, and seater.  What does the  Lee instructions say?

Most .40's sold today, even Glocks, don't make bulges requiring a bulge buster.  Thankfully they have improved cartridge support in most pistols sold today.....the trouble is.....when you buy bulk so called "once-shot" .40 cases you don't know what they were shot out of, so it would probably be best to run them all though a "bulge-buster" first.

That said, if you find cases with really prominent bulges like pictured below, they are weakened brass and I'd toss them into a box for recycling.  A bulge buster will suck it in for you, but it won't make it strong again.

I went to Lee's website and pulled up the Bulge Buster instruction sheet. I can see why you asked the question. They are not very clear. The fact that they suggested pushing the busted cases directly into a loading tube off the buster, in the case you have one of Lee's progressives, suggest that they expect you to load normally after.....that is size, expand, prime, charge, and seat. (and of course Lee wants you to use the factory crimp die that comes with the bulge buster )

They suggest their carbide sizers are made to prevent the lower bulge ring that other dies make was interesting. (making using the Bulge Buster a one time operation on any particular case) I can see that if one tries to size bulged cases without the bulge buster, but after using the Redding or Lee bulge removers, there's no bulge, so no carbide sizer is likely to bulge the case.

They had a disclaimer too......don't use the bulge buster on brass shot in pistols with unsupported chambers!   (referring to older Glocks folks)  Well that relieves them of any responsibility doesn't it?  What else are busters for?  Not for weakened brass for sure......picture above again.

The biggest problem with the case shown isn't the bulge so much as the crease above it. That is were the case would come apart. That case looks to me like an extreme anyway. I have several older glocks that don't bulge the brass that bad.

I need a bulge buster for my gut!

I reload a lot of .40, and bulge bust every one before running through my progressive press. I had way too many issues with failure to feed/chamber/fire before with random range brass, knocking on wood I'm up to about 9,256 according to the counter with no issues.  I also will not reload brass with severe defects or creases, but here local all the police departments use gen 1, and 2 glocks and all brass is "glocked" up.  My oldest son who is 5, actually does the "busting" for me as he loves to help in the war room.  It teaches him basics of concentrating and not mashing the fingers (yes I wash all cases in an ultrasonic and he wears gloves to prevent any unnessary exposure for him).  After the initial cleaning, and busting I run them through the progressive press and we go play.  A extra tidbit I've found is use some imperial case lube on your fingers or gloves and it makes the cases slide through the bulge buster kit like butter.  My two or three cents,  Shelby

As ALWAYS...I learn from you guys; thanks for bringing awareness to this bulging issue. I just bought a case of 4,000 pieces of .40 S&W and I'll certainly be on the lookout for this as I process that brass.  Since I wet tumble and de-prime my brass before doing so, that will be the time to look out for cases that have a bulge and just toss them in the recycle bucket.  Won't even have to bother with it when it comes time to send them through the Pro2k.

And no joke about the gut and butt references.  I'll add another level of crudity in this.....I'm just gonna tape a bulged case on my crotch and tell my girlfriend, "HEY! Come look at my bulge!!".