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Post by erjdriver on Sept 10, 2014 17:33:51 GMT -5
OK...I'm not ashamed to show my stupidity and ask a noob question...
I've read in the Die instructions and I've read threads on forum boards referencing "Cam Over". Exactly what does that mean?? And is it something I want to avoid or is it needed sometimes?
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gws
Member
Posts: 969
Location: NW New Mexico
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Post by gws on Sept 10, 2014 19:21:30 GMT -5
Avoid, need? Yes, and yes. Did that help?  Seriously, its referring to going a little beyond stroking your press to the die to the point where it touches the shell holder/plate. Done by dropping the lever all the way down presenting the shell holder all the way up. You then screw your die in until it touches the shell holder. Lower the ram a little and screw the die down a little more. then when you push the handle back down you will fill some resistance until the ram "cams over" or IOW's goes past top dead center and down the other side to the end of the stroke. There is easy cam-over or hard cam-over (harder on your press) and everywhere between, that depends on how much force is required to finish the stroke. Why do that? Because it removes all the play in the ram and linkage, and makes the setting more repeatable. However, sometimes that bumps your case shoulders farther than you want and reduces case life......On the other hand for the less experienced it ensures the safest, sized-enough ammo, which is why many dies come with instructions suggesting that. If you will buy a good gage for each caliber to measure the shoulder location of new factory rounds, shot factory brass, and sized brass as sizer is set by you, you can see how much you are bumping the shoulders back. Generally .002" or .003" is enough to feed a case well in most rifles. Camming over may bump up to .007".....or it may not.....depends on your sizer, and your press. Anybody has more to add, please do. |
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Post by erjdriver on Sept 10, 2014 20:05:36 GMT -5
OK...I'll read that a few times and try to let it sink in. Am I correct in saying that I will probably never need to cam over for straight-walled/pistol cases if I'm reloading just for "plinking" rounds? And would I be correct in assuming that I MIGHT need to cam over when loading .223? Even with RCBS AR Series Small Base Dies?
Thanks G!
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bob
Member
I'm too old to be nice but never too old to learn!
Posts: 1,457 
Location: Northern California
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Post by bob on Sept 10, 2014 22:26:25 GMT -5
Never is along time! The instructions for all/most sizing dies say "set to cam over" however once you gain experience and confidence you may find it not always necessary. I recently got my 1st small base die and I have started with a "cam over" setting. This may change in time but probably not given the rifle,an M1 Garrand, or I may just go to my full length die cammed over as long as the cartridges function propperly. As far as straight wall cartirdges DO NOT Cam Over Carbide sizing dies but with plain steel you cam over. Hope this is helpful.
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gws
Member
Posts: 969
Location: NW New Mexico
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Post by gws on Sept 10, 2014 22:41:20 GMT -5
Most of the pistol dies we use now days have carbide sleeves.....Bob's right, you never cam-over on a carbide sizer or you will break the carbide sleeve. So no don't be doing that with anything but steel rifle & pistol dies. You are going to be safe for plinking by following the directions that comes with your dies. That's the best advice for any new reloader, good for any die, for any firearm that is designed within Sammi specifications for its caliber. Those directions are created to work for every standard firearm in good condition. (that loads ammo as close to factory as possible....small base even more so.) It's a great idea to collect Wilson gages for the calibers you shoot. Read the directions, then plunk your reloads into the gage. If all is well your ammo will go in easily......think of them as insurance that you sized, trimmed, and seated well enough to make dependable ammo. (They do nothing to check on powder charge though, hopefully you get that right. ) Depending what press & dies you have, what firearm you are loading for, and whether you'd like to try to reload more accurate than factory, and extend case life while your are at it, you may choose not to cam over. To do that you need a Hornady, or RCBS's Precision Mic headspace gage and know how you use them. Otherwise stick to following the directions that come with your dies. Study some reloading manuals and take reloading a step at a time. Using Gages and minimizing shoulder bumping of rifle bottleneck cases, come later after you understand the basics well. As Dangun says, be safe.  One last thing, some Aluminum presses come with instructions that say don't cam over....or cam over light. That's a direct indication of their strength. You don't want a broken Aluminum casting. |
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Sept 10, 2014 23:11:24 GMT -5
Yes to what they said. Never ever cam over an aluminum press. You need a good iron press for those instances when a cam over is needed.
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My daughter came from Missouri, my son and grand son, my wife and I had a nice dinner of grilled "porter house" pork chops, corn on the cobb, my son, G'son and I share 10/5. G'son is 4 minutes early though @ 10/4.
Pooh I hope you find to right house . 
