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Post by robster on Jun 18, 2014 17:53:00 GMT -5
I just bought a Piettia .44 cap and ball my question is when loading do you put the lubed wad between the powder and ball or does it go after the ball to seal the cylinder?
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Post by ultramag on Jun 18, 2014 18:04:33 GMT -5
Wads go between the powder and the ball. If you're cheap like me you can skip the wads and load powder, ball, then stick some Crisco in each cylinder on top of all that.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Jun 18, 2014 18:19:29 GMT -5
I never used the wads but never thought of crisco. I used wheel bearing grease.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2014 4:19:03 GMT -5
Robster, I do use wads for my cap & ball revolvers, no matter if they are antique or a replica. One of my C&B’s is a huge .44 Colt Walker revolver. It can hold up to 60 grain of black powder per chamber. That gun is a real blast.
But it’s useless to fill the cylinder chambers up with that amount (60gr) of black powder. The optimal performance up to 50 meters (or closer) is with my revolver about 45 to 50 grains of BP per ball. If I fill them with 60gr the gun becomes extremely dirty and that causes accuracy and functionality problems. Plus the unburned powder (residue) is way to much to be effective.
To fill up the charge difference I place a felt or wool wad and seat the balls on top. I have wads of different heights to compensate, just so that the balls (no matter the charge) are always seated at the same height. These wads are either dry or coated with some lube (depending on the charge). I lube the lead balls with Lee Liquid Alox in advance at home. My .44 C&B revolver wads variate from 1mm up to 8mm in thickness, depending on the powder charge and bullet (Ball or Collar-Button) combination.
To seal of the individual chambers I use al kinds of stuff ranging from bees-wax, to butter/margarine to the expensive grease from OxYoke or TC Bore Butter and so on. But it is all the same and 9 out of 10 times I just use butter/margarine for convenience and it’s cheap. Be aware and do not use Petroleum Jelly because this can burn. I have seen a bizarre accident with it way to close to me, PY is an excellent source for starting fires!
Note, I do shoot (paper) target competitions with C&B revolvers so I spend some extra time and money to make my loads as accurate and consistent as can be. Plus it keeps my revolver barrel cleaner in between shots. Those wads are major contributor for the best results..... at least for me. To be honest I use wads of all kinds of material and sizes for “all” my muzzle loading rifles, shotguns, pistols and revolvers.
PJ.
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Post by robster on Jun 19, 2014 18:04:35 GMT -5
Thanks for all the info PJ I like the idea of spacing the balls to the same depth I will give it a try.
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poohzilla
Member
Give me a place to stand and a long-enough lever, and I will invariably break the lever.
Posts: 1,050
Location: New Hamster
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Post by poohzilla on Jun 21, 2014 11:41:34 GMT -5
I've used Crisco in my 1860 for years, as well as more recently in my Walker. Dan, you should try it--it smells like there's a popcorn vendor around, and you can pretend you're in the movies !
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Jun 21, 2014 19:40:58 GMT -5
It's has to smell better than wheel bearing grease LOL
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2014 4:35:27 GMT -5
What about the smell of burned (rancid) butter or margarine? It's a nice way to distract your fellow competitors. PJ
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