dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Jun 23, 2014 20:57:56 GMT -5
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loafer
Member
No Loafing around
Posts: 52
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Post by loafer on Oct 19, 2014 11:27:44 GMT -5
Dan I have always appreciated the time & explanation that you have done with your videos!!! Once again thank you keep them coming.
Loafer
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Oct 20, 2014 12:41:51 GMT -5
Thanks Dan! I haven't done a video in along time but have several topics in mind for more. If I ever get time.
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Post by springfieldxdm on Oct 20, 2014 19:56:33 GMT -5
I missed this before, but awesome idea with the drill. I'm a little slow sometimes. How far do you actually cut in the shoulder? I have the k&m kit but have never used it, as an old timer told me I could do more harm when uniforming the neck thickness than just shooting as is. I have always been interested, just never done it.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Oct 21, 2014 9:11:45 GMT -5
The old timer was correct if neck turning standard caliber brass. You just want to go up to but not into the shoulder. For wildcat brass that has had the neck upset then you have to go into the shoulder less than .001" in order to completely remove the raised ring caused by necking up the brass. The shoulder end of the cutter is ground to the same angle of the shoulder. That helps prevent cutting into the shoulder more than required. It has been my experience that neck turning if only to make the wall thickness uniform on any bottle neck brass will help to improve accuracy. I have heard many target shooters say they wish they had started turning necks long before they finally did.
Another thing to note is that unless you are using bushing neck dies or the collet type neck dies you could turn the necks thin enough that standard neck or even full length re-sizing dies won't do the trick any longer. For standard calibers with standard factory chambers, neck turning is just to remove the high spots.
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gws
Member
Posts: 969
Location: NW New Mexico
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Post by gws on Oct 22, 2014 20:53:36 GMT -5
Finally got time to watch the video. Good one, very useful, very clear! When I was young I got a box of .308 LC brass (67 vintage stuff....well it wasn't so vintage then ) I had just bought a little Remington 600 .243 Mohawk carbine for $110 dollars. (very poor student at the time) and I had read in "Handloader" how you could neck the .308 brass down to .243. I tried a few and even bought a new outside neck turner for my Forster Trimmer! Well, that one is not worth the setup issues unless you have 2 trimmers so you can leave it be with the outside neck trimmer kit on it. What you are using is infinitely more useful. I decided not to neck down the LC, though,.....brass that says 7.62 and isn't...was annoying. A wildcat or a caliber where brass is less available is a much better project for outside neck turning! BTW, all I did to neck it down (following "Handloaders" instructions), was first sizing in a .308 sizer, then resizing in a .243 sizer. It did work, and it did have a thick neck. I noticed that even with the thick neck, I was able to chamber the loaded round fine in my rifle. Must have been on the tight side, but it shot and ejected. I was pretty wet behind the ears.....not sure how dangerous that was. I still have a souvenir round left, I will have to measure with calipers and see how tight it really is. You got me curious.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Oct 23, 2014 13:38:59 GMT -5
I make .222 brass from .223 brass all the time. There are a few trimming steps that have to be done but all I use is imperial wax, a .222 FL re-sizer die and a trimmer. That makes for very thick necks that do need the inside reamed so as not to crush the bullet when seating.
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gws
Member
Posts: 969
Location: NW New Mexico
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Post by gws on Oct 23, 2014 19:23:52 GMT -5
Well, Dan, I may need to do a little neck trimming after all. In my last thread I mentioned that I had "bought" a sportsterized Mauser chambered in .243. Well I was wrong. It came with 20 reloads with case head markings that said, ".243 Winchester." So I assumed right? So when I tried to chamber a new factory .243, it would not go in not even close..........turns out the barrel (and the accompanying reloads) are for .223. Interesting.....I wasn't aware of a .22-08....or as I am corrected..... .22-243. Midway has RCBS dies in stock: www.midwayusa.com/product/865105/rcbs-2-die-set-22-243-winchesterSlightly pricey....had to pick up my jaw off the floor.......taking donations......
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Post by hacker54 on Oct 23, 2014 20:25:27 GMT -5
Greg, There is a couple of wildcats based on this cartridge the 308 Win. family. The 220 Jaybird the 22 CHeetah are just a couple that I know of. I think there might be a couple more but not sure with out doing some research.
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dangun
Member
I love the smell of burnt gun powder.
Posts: 517
Location: SW Florida
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Post by dangun on Oct 24, 2014 7:37:22 GMT -5
Greg, I built a .22-243 many years ago. I looked around this morning and found the chamber reamer I had custom made but have not found the dies. I may have let them go when I sold the rifle in fact I'm sure I did. Best I remember is that I only knocked the high spots off the outside of the neck before I necked them down and I did end up having to ream the inside. I must have sold the reamer with the rifle as well as it isn't anywhere to be found. I used that rifle allot on P-dogs in Western Okla. It was a good 300 to 600 yard P-dog exterminator. I don't remember the load but the 55gr pill in the 1:14 twist barrel did a nice job. I also remember why I sold the rifle. I acquired a Remington 700 Bull barrel chambered for 22-250. With commercially available brass for the 22-250 the 22-243 became little more than a safe queen.
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gws
Member
Posts: 969
Location: NW New Mexico
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Post by gws on Oct 28, 2014 21:27:45 GMT -5
So tell me, would it be best to size my .243 cases to .223, and then ream the inside of the necks? I notice RCBS sells a neck reaming die/reamer combo for .22-243.
Or would it be better to size and expand.....then use an outside reamer? Seems to me the latter would make the neck walls more uniform in thickness.
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